Experienced by Kimatni D. Rawlins and Randolph Payton
Nanga def (hello in Wolof) and welcome to vibrant Dakar, Senegal in West Africa, also known as the Land of Teranga. Our father-and-son journey to Senegal became both a cultural and historical immersion, revealing layers of resilience that continue to define the Senegalese people today. We travel to Africa twice a year for friendship and rediscovery in our ancestral home. Of course we were not physically born in Africa, but Africa is spiritually born in us!
In Wolof, the traditional and national Senegalese language, Teranga is defined as hospitality and represents the country’s foremost cultural value. In every part of Senegal that we traversed, whether Salay or Lac Rose (Pink Lake), we were welcomed with warm embraces and inviting conversations. With a population of 18.5 million, you will be fascinated by the artistic talents, delectable foods, and focused mindsets of the locals. But make sure to brush up on your Wolof and French because many do not speak English.
My Nomadic Journeys to Africa always incorporate historical research; thus, the focus was on visiting Gorée Island and The House of Slaves, a 25-minute ferry ride from the Port of Dakar, the largest port in West Africa. Unfathomable, it is estimated that more than 20 million enslaved men, women, and children transited through Gorée, whereas 6 million died before exiting the Door of No Return en route to the Americas and other countries on slave ships for a second act of cruelty and brutality.
In Wolof, Gorée means dignity. “I’m African, I’m Black. I’m not rich from gold or petroleum, I have richness from my color.” A UNESCO World Heritage site, we toured the small island with knowledgeable guide Kenza Sall and stopped by The House of Slaves where the most inhumane acts of violence transpired in the crowded, damp, dark, and filthy cells for months at a time. Kenza is the island’s only female tour guide whose commentary connects personal stories to the wider Transatlantic Slave Trade. Her insights highlighted how Gorée served as one of West Africa’s key slave trading centers contested by Portuguese, Dutch, British, and French powers from the 15th to the 19th century.
Built by the Dutch in 1780, The House of Slaves retained 150 to 200 people simultaneously while separating them by sex and age. There was one cell for the children and five cells for the men who were shackled and grouped in one small area. Many of the children died before even setting foot on the ships due to the harsh conditions. Virgin girls were also divided and sold for four times the value of non-virgins. Just imagine being traded like property for meaningless goods such as guns, jewelry, or alcohol.
Today, about 2,000 people — Muslims and Christians alike — live on the 45 to 70-acre island which boasts a school, food market, medical facility, police station, church, colonial-styled architecture, memorials and structures, and an array of the native Baobob trees (symbol of Senegal) that are used for numerous needs from the juice of the fruit to the leaves for couscous to the sap for glue. There are no cars or motorbikes as everyone walks to their destinations. It’s a carefully preserved “island of memory,” where museums, school visits, and guided tours keep the history of slavery and colonialism in public consciousness.
Even as the transatlantic slave trade formally ended in the 19th century, conversations on the island often link that past to ongoing forms of current exploitation, including the extraction of African natural resources and persistent global inequalities shaped by this history. On a brighter note, every September the country hosts the Dakar-Gorée Crossing open-water swim competition in remembrance of slaves attempting to swim to freedom. The 5K challenge features two classes and 800 swimmers including professionals and amateurs ready to race for honor. How fascinating!
We left with a sense of sadness about the past, while acknowledging the positive contributions of the people, so father and I were thankful for the opportunity to experience this pivotal moment. We even purchased a few sand paintings to reflect our visit to Gorée Island. Once you are back in Dakar and to align with society, here are a few other places to visit for food, shopping, and culture: Sea Plaza Shopping Mall, Urbanista, Sandaga Market, Corniche beachfront, African Renaissance Monument, Matcha Cafe (Vegan Sushi), Shuluc Taste of India, Nature Attitude Health Store, Casa Teranga, and Lac Rose to witness the pink waters created by salt-loving microorganisms.
Travel extensively to gain a cultural perspective and more profound interconnectedness with your African brothers and sistas. One Love!
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